*
The
audience in the movie theatre sits in darkness, their faces lit
occasionally by flashes of light from the screen. It's a late showing
of the latest blockbuster, so the seats are filled with a young
crowd. Almost everyone is eating or drinking: nachos, candy or sodas
the size of their heads. But by far the most popular snack is
popcorn. Vast cardboard cartons are clutched in laps or balanced on
arm rests. Hands reach in to stuff mouths mechanically. Stray kernels
litter the floor. They fall down girls' tops and gather on men's belt
buckles.
Those
who were forced to sit near the front dare not try it: it is only
safe to do so in the true dark of the back rows. The young men that
sit there are quietly confident. Most of them have already put an arm
around their date.
This
is an epidemic: a movie theatre in Birmingham, Alabama, has banned
the sale of popcorn under heavy pressure from evangelical Christian
groups, who claim that they must stamp out the so-called “popcorn
trick”, a thoroughly unholy disturbance that is becoming rife
amongst the state's youth.
A
brief visit to a multiplex in Montgomery reveals that the popcorn
trick is indeed common practice among young males. I surveyed young
women in their teens, asking if they had been targeted. Almost all
answered yes, and one nineteen year old even confessed to having been
targeted on a first date.
'I
should have seen it coming. He was desperate to get a super-sized
carton. I wanted sweet but he insisted on butter, now I know why.
Midway through the trailers I went to the bathroom. That's when he
must have cut the hole. Then I came back and stuck my hand in the
popcorn, and there it was. I screamed.'
In
movie theatres across the country, girls happily bury their hand into
the carton of popcorn they are sharing with their boyfriend, only to
find an erect penis hidden amongst the buttery puffs.
Growing
up, I lived in the same valley as a popcorn manufacturing plant. With
tremendous foresight, my mother banned both my brother and me from
eating it. She rightly claimed it was unhealthy and overpriced. Even
when I went to the movies with friends in my teens, I was too scared
to disobey her in case she caught a lost kernel in my hair or noticed
a buttery sheen on my lips. Any dates who might have tried the
popcorn trick on me were quickly turned off by my piety. In adulthood
I have been duly seduced by chocolate and alcohol: popcorn feels like
the child's option at the movies. But this uproar in Birmingham had
me wondering what exactly I've been missing out on.
It's
been a bad year for corn crops in America. High temperatures and
drought have blighted as much as two thirds of many farmers' yields.
This will devastate farming communities, and push prices up on a
global scale. I've come to see the corn farmers of Iowa, to see if
they agree with the Church's latest theory; has God sent this blight
to curb the sinful effects of popping corn?
The
Marshall County Corn Farmers' Union hold their monthly socials in an
empty barn near Laurel, at the intersection of three crops. Tonight
the sky is heavy with storm clouds, which four months ago would have
been welcomed. Now, it is a case of too little, too late. The farmers
have come to drown their sorrows.
Only
one man agrees to talk to me. Louis Nixon seems particularly
downbeat, and his liquor bottle is larger than others'. He slides
into the front seat of my car and looks straight out the windscreen
at the approaching clouds. He could be fifty, or much younger, as his
face is lined from the sun but his hair is not yet grey. I wonder if
the stress of this season will change that.
I
ask him if he's familiar with the popcorn trick. He laughs.
'Sure.
That trick's been going since my father's days. I would've thought
girls would be wise to it by now.'
I
assure him that this is not the case. I ask if he thinks the drought
could have been sent by God, as punishment for the sins of corn. Only
then does he turn to look at me.
'Well,
sure it's been sent by God. But all my corn goes to feed livestock,
so I don't see why I should be the one punished if some horny
teenagers can't keep it in their pants.'
I
soon find that it's not just horny teenagers who are being affected.
Mitchell Davis, a truck driver from Des Moines, has been tortured by
a shred of popcorn that has been stuck between his teeth for thirteen
months.
'I
used to love having a bag of caramel corn on the dash of my truck
when I was driving. It was a test of my driving skill, to see if I
could drive smooth enough to stop the bag falling off. One bag would
never last long anyway. But this time, it was a Tuesday, I was on
Highway 102 and I was almost done with a bag. Now I used to get bits
of it stuck in my teeth all the time. You could usually wiggle it out
with a toothpick. But this Tuesday when it got stuck, well it's still
never come out to this day.'
Mr.
Davis says he has tried everything; he has brushed and flossed until
his gums bled, and he has even tried eating more popcorn, in the hope
that another piece will dislodge this rogue fragment. But strangest
of all, Mr. Davis's dentist was unable to identify the fragment when
he visited him in distress one month later.
'Apparently
it's quite a common thing; once the thing gets out, you keep
imagining that it's still there. But it's a phantom sensation.'
Phantom
or not, Mr. Davis continues to be tortured.
'When
I'm driving now, I prefer cookies, or even potato chips. Sometimes I
reckon the sharp corner of a potato chip could get it out. I can't
even look at popcorn now.' For him at least, the poor crop yield is a
blessing. He doesn't have to drive long routes along the highways,
passing endless fields of tall, swaying corn ears taunting him. The
stalks are stumpy this year, which is a comfort.
Thirty-year-old
Trudy Lipman also used to love popcorn. For nine years she worked for
AshForce Mail Order, who coordinate white goods mail orders across
the state. In 2009, Trudy's bosses started using popcorn as a
replacement packing material for polystyrene, in an effort to be more
environmentally conscious. This soon proved problematic for Trudy,
who has been battling popcorn addiction ever since.
I
meet her in a diner near her home. She is neatly dressed and bright.
I notice a candy corn milkshake on the menu, but she either does not
see it, or she has developed enough self-control to only order
coffee.
'I
had recently started a diet at the time. I wanted to lose thirty
pounds before my sister's wedding, so I cut out all candy, cookies
and chips and I switched to diet soda. Then they started using
popcorn for packing at work. My job was to check the delivery notes
that were slid in the top of the boxes. So when I took the delivery
note out, I would just eat a couple of bits of popcorn. It didn't
seem like a big deal. It's not like I worked in a cake factory.'
But
Trudy's innocent habit soon began to spiral out of control. 'Soon, I
was craving popcorn all the time. But I couldn't eat it plain any
more; it was my replacement treat for all the candy I was missing. At
my worst, I took a salt cellar into work and kept it in my pocket. I
would sprinkle each handful of popcorn with salt before eating it. I
was soon eating five or six handfuls per box. Luckily, you couldn't
really notice it missing because they used so much. I was careful,
but it did take me longer to check each order. And then I started
eating it at home too.'
Trudy
continued her subterfuge for two years. The hidden salt cellar went
unnoticed, but although she managed to lose twenty seven pounds
before her sister's wedding, her blood pressure sky-rocketed. Plain
popcorn is hailed as a high-fibre, low-fat snack alternative to chips
and candy, but since Trudy was smothering hers in salt, her sodium
intake went through the roof. She is now having to beat her addiction
if she wants to have a child as planned in the next couple of years.
Addiction
specialists say salted popcorn addiction is particularly difficult to
beat; the physical lightness of the food, and the fact it doesn't
look greasy or bad for you, means it's harder for the brain to
compute its dangers. Furthermore, you can often eat popcorn
inconsequentially, while you're watching TV, cooking or even
vacuuming, making it even more deadly than alcoholism. Addicts crave
that puckered mouth feel that comes with too much salt; until they
get that feeling, their brain tells them to keep eating. And as the
addiction progresses, they're constantly aiming for that saturated
feeling, which means eating a lot of popcorn. Trudy says she suffered
from terrible dehydration headaches.
'I
also had steam burns on my hands from opening the microwave bags too
quickly. I was a mess. It was only when I visited my doctor for a
routine check-up that I realised what effect popcorn was having on my
body.'
She
is now on a controlled dosage of one bag per day, provided she drinks
plenty of water, as well as drugs to lower her blood pressure. Soon
she hopes to make the switch to plain. 'Switching to candy corn for a
while is another option, but my dentist isn't so keen on that,' she
jokes.
I
leave the diner before Trudy, who is waiting for a friend. As I stand
at the crossing I watch her out of the corner of my eye. To a
stranger, she is just a nicely-dressed woman; she isn't even
noticeably overweight. She doesn't have the yellowed fingertips of a
nicotine addict, or the bloodshot eyes of an alcoholic. Hers is a
hidden addiction, controlled by something thought to be so innocent.
The
National Association for Popcorn Addiction (NAPA) has noticed a sharp
rise in the addiction in the under-25s. But it's not the salty taste
that they crave. NAPA chairman, Colonel Parker, says it all stems
from the rise of social media.
'Popcorn
has always been associated with entertainment: you're sitting down as
a family to watch a movie, so you make a big bowl of popcorn to
share. This became the ritual that when a spectacle was going on,
like a fight between colleagues at work, you would joke that you
would bring popcorn to make the whole thing a real “event”. But
what we've found now with young people and the rise of Facebook
events and Twitter hashtags and so on, is that they are getting
addicted to making “non-events” popcorn-worthy.'
He
tells me one mother's story of her fifteen-year-old son, who some
days eats a bowl of popcorn for every half-hour news bulletin.
'He
isn't even interested in the news normally, but with popcorn he can
make it an Event. Young people today just cannot deal with their
mundane, everyday existence. They must tag, check in and tweet
constantly.'
The
most extreme cases eat entire bowls just sitting watching the world
go by out of their bedroom window. Colonel Parker says 'they need to
imagine they are seeing everything on a screen. The world needs to be
watched, and recorded, and put on YouTube, and popcorn helps with
this feeling that our whole lives are made of Events that are worthy
of sharing on the internet. More often than not, of course, there's
nothing exciting for them to witness, but the damage is already
done.'
Popcorn
only continues to be glamorised; it is the new favourite for
experimentation with celebrity chefs and new gourmet flavours are the
foodie gift of choice. Critics fear that it's only a matter of time
before popcorn becomes the new cupcake. Will they develop new, more
elaborate pornographic tricks using salted caramel popcorn, or
chocolate and chilli flavour? Will anxious teens build up huge debts
through peer pressure to pop the latest variety? Mini popcorn,
super-sized, popcorn-flavoured potato chips, popcorn birthday cakes.
Popcorn soda and gum. This slide from innocence to addiction seems
inevitable, especially if the trend is fuelled by social media.
This
year, a man from Illinois was awarded damages of over $7m from a
popcorn manufacturer, after claiming that there was no warning on
bags of microwave popcorn that inhaling large amounts of diacetyl,
found in buttered popcorn, could cause health problems. He had
averaged two bags a day for years and had developed so-called
“popcorn lung” which has been linked to diacetyl. He is no
impressionable youth, but he is another victim of this increasingly
lawless world.
His
case has finally brought the dangers of popcorn to the attention of
politicians. Using this leverage, NAPA has reached out to the
government to control the grain nationally. The Republican party say
that access to popcorn is a right. I search, but I can find no
mention of popcorn in the Constitution. The Democrats, conscious of
rising obesity, youth social problems and the cost of dental care,
seem more willing to open discussions.
When
I interview Iowa State Governor, Mac Percy, he is nostalgic. 'Popcorn
symbolises first dates at the drive-in movies, which is a great
American tradition. It is important that our children's children
still know that magic.' When I ask him if he ever tried the popcorn
trick in his youth, he is evasive. If a bill was to be passed,
politicians could well fear a new type of kiss-and-tell; teenage
dates from their past outing their love of large buckets of buttered.
There
is only one place left for me to visit on this quest: my home town,
and the root of my popcorn memories. After Iowa, I travel there, to
see if I can confront the dirtiest demons left in this deadly chain.
Reed
& Core popcorn and candy manufacturers are responsible for
the employment of thirty per cent of the workforce in my home town.
They produce forty per cent of the nation's popcorn, supplying to
movie theatres, theme parks and selling it in stores.
I
watch from the parking lot. It's a Monday afternoon, so what I assume
is this week's supply of salt arrives in an unmarked truckload. I
think of Trudy's high blood pressure and my own rises. From the
outside, the factory could be producing anything from fridges to
orange juice to paper clips. There is no sign that it deals in the
most dangerous form of metamorphosis.
As
I am considering trying to get inside, a 350 Ford Mustang rolls into
the lot. I recognise CEO Jerry Reed's face from Google, even with
half of it hidden behind huge aviators. He has not answered any of my
letters or phone calls. Does he know he is a wanted man, responsible
for the newest sin of the modern world?
He's
young, having inherited the business after his father's death four
years ago. He parks in his marked space and waits a moment before
stepping out of the car. He's dressed to match it: expensive shoes,
jeans, and even a Letterman jacket. His hair is slicked back. He
would look ridiculous if he wasn't so handsome. As he steps out, he
brushes at his crotch and a few bits of popcorn fall to the ground.
Sure enough, he is holding a squashed empty carton. I see him lick
something off his lips. Has he been to the movies? Is he monitoring
the competition, or testing the quality of his own brand? Did he
choose salted, buttered or sweet? I am mesmerized.
I
close my eyes; I am at the movies with Jerry Reed. We agree to share
a large bucket of buttered. In the darkness of the theatre I brush
arms with the Popcorn King, our fingers touching as we reach to fill
our mouths with the taste of suspense. It is hot and salty on my
tongue.